New Route Information

Do You have a new epic or boulder 
problem we should know about?
just email a route description, attach
a topo if you can. All good info will be posted here.



Click Above for overview maps and area descriptions

New Routes, work or Projects

Fall, 2003

December 9, 2002

September 15, 2002

There are 3 new problems south behind) crack my boulder. The lines are on the clean short arête on the right side of the boulder.

  1. v0/v1 unnamed (easy if your tall reachy if your not) it starts on the slightly overhanging face.
  2. V2 unnamed Sit start on the bottom of the arête and go up and right on to the slab at the top. fa by Jeremy Childs.
  3. V3 busted butt sit start like the above line but just go up the arête, fa Jeremy Childs.

  4. Also 3 new routes on blow down rock.
  1. rocket to Russia v4 start on the far left side and traverse right. fa Jeremy Childs.
  2. the sneaky gee. V1 same start as rocket to Russia but just go strait up. fa Chris bozman .

3) freaky gee's log ride V2. Just around the corner of Rocket to Russia on the face facing the camp ground there is a high ball arête problem. The crux is all mental. falling is a no no!! bring lots of pads and a few good spotters. fa Jeremy Childs.

Duncan Lewis has put up a hard project on huck rock, start low in the roof and think body tension, he got most of it but due to rain we had to leave. he thinks it going be in the v8/9 range. it is called return of the Jedi.

one last note I recleaned crotch at the main wall.

August 8


June 1

April 26

April 10

April 7, 2002

September 24, 2001

August 19, 2001

november, 2000

July 5, 2000

April 24, 2000

April 18, 2000


March 24, 2000

New aid route was finally completed on March 15, 2000.  It was started Jan 1st, 2000.  M & J. Waters and M. Boyd all contributed to the first accent.  The route starts about 10 meters left of Sky Diving Wood Bugs. Click here for the topo.  John's sketchy hook moves and Mike's speedy pin placements resulted in some good falls on the little 1/4" bolts (all bolts where placed while on lead and hanging from hooks.  Boyd led far above un-tightened bolts because the wrench was forgotten.  Click here for more.

DEVILS ADVOCATE        II  A2+  5.10d       3 pitches

     This route is an example of when a traditional "ground up" ascent meets new school sport climbing.  Two rappels down from the end fo Arbutus Alley and a tricky traverse get you to the start of this one.  Or rappel the whole route from the top anchors.  Click here for a topo.

Pitch 1   Climb 30m up this 5.10d dihedral to a fixed anchor. gear to 2.5 inches.
fa: Nevin Harper       ffa: MB

Pitch 2   Move right around the dihedral and connect up with the 1.5 inch face crack (A2+). Take most obvious route to the ledge. Use high horizontal crack for anchor.
fa: M. Boyd

Pitch 3  Smile & Wave. From here, climb up past bulge and continue up the exposed face for last 45m on 13 bolts to complete the climb (5.10d).  The whole route takes about 5 hours.
ffa: M. Boyd

Other Projects

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